Northwest Fishing Reports

Ok so I just got a pair of downriggers. I have never even used a DR before so it will be intresting. I am stoked and cant wait to use them. I didnt think things were so complicted, but I am learning that there is a little more to it than I though.

I was just wondering what kind of cable most people used. I have 200' of stainles, but I hear the braided stuff is a lot better. And I would like to switch to that, should I switch to that?

Does anybody use Gimbal mounts? I have 2 swivle mounts that I can mount with little effort, but for some reason I like the Gimbal style mounts, even though they dont seem as popular.

Thanks in adavnce

You touched on a question that has bounced around in the forum a few times. I can say the general concensus is go with the braid. There are a few diehards that still use SS cable, but I think you will find that anyone who has switched to braid won't go back to cable. The cheapest way to go is to get a 300 yard spool of 125lb+ of Tuf Line XP. This will let you put 450' of line on each down rigger, which is more than enough, even if you are fishing Lake Chelan. The spool should run less than $45 and I'm pretty sure that Outdoor Emporium and or Sportco stock it in a test suitable for downriggers.

Don't take my word for it, check out the past posts in the forum, type in "downrigger braid" and hit the search button.

Garrett, I don't know anything about what Gimball mounts are, but like was stated b4... just stay away from the stainless. Get braided line. virtualy no hum, soft, easy to use etc. But the biggest thing to me is that the cable line wants to jump off the d.r. like when bad fishing line jumps off your spinning reel. When it comes off like that it wraps around under the d.r. and is a PIA to put back. Also it is not forgiving. It gets bends/kinks in it. Braided line NEVER does that, and stays on the rigger without jumping off.

What kind of down riggers did you get? I know some people have had problems with braid on certain types of DRs. The braid has cut into the plastic reel is the main concern.

I have no idea what a gimbal mount is but every DR i have ever used has been on a swivel mount and it easy to rotate in when oyu wnat to pick up and move to your next hole.

There is tons of debate on this stuff on a few diffrent sites along with this one.

I put braid on my Scotty 1106's and will never go back to SS cable.
I also would hard mount the downriggers using a swivel mount rather than a gimble style mount because it will provide a more solid mounting surface with less moving parts and less flex on the side of your boat. Remember when you hang 8 or 10 pounds of weight extended out the length of your downrigger boom the mounting surfaces will have to endure quite a bit of stress with all of the flexing that's going to be going on especially if your trolling in less than calm water.

For those that haven't seen a GIMBLE MOUNT here's one for use with Scotty downriggers:

I had a friend with gimbal mounts. Had both stolen in a matter of seconds!!!! I have a pair of scottys on swivels with 200 pound cortland braid. I love the combination. Every few trips, re-tie the line just like you would with your fishing line and your good to go. Just for kicks, fish with your SS cable once before you switch. Listen for the howl, watch for kinks, and if you break the line, hope you have a crimping tool.

I love the braid...but one thing I've noticed is that it changes the actual depth of the ball compared to what is being displayed on the counter. Like buying different size tires and now having your speedo off...same principle. It's not a big deal. usally a couple of feet off, and I always verify final depth using my depth sounder. Just my experience...

Boy am I glad I read this. I am going to OE tonite to get some braided cord. I use stainless and I do have kinks and hear the noise. Especially on a alum boat.I have Scotty Strongarm DR's.Mine are mounted on Scotty swivel bases. I do miss the Penn Fathomasters though.

mav186 wrote:I love the braid...but one thing I've noticed is that it changes the actual depth of the ball compared to what is being displayed on the counter. Like buying different size tires and now having your speedo off...same principle. It's not a big deal. usally a couple of feet off, and I always verify final depth using my depth sounder. Just my experience...

The number on the DR doesn't really reflect the depth your fishing, but rather the amount of DR line that you have out. Blowback, no matter how small, will determine the actual depth. Also, the reel of your downrigger will provide the measurement based on # of turns, and as braid is thinner, the reading should be more accurate than it would be were you using SS.

bionic_one wrote:

mav186 wrote:I love the braid...but one thing I've noticed is that it changes the actual depth of the ball compared to what is being displayed on the counter. Like buying different size tires and now having your speedo off...same principle. It's not a big deal. usally a couple of feet off, and I always verify final depth using my depth sounder. Just my experience...

The number on the DR doesn't really reflect the depth your fishing, but rather the amount of DR line that you have out. Blowback, no matter how small, will determine the actual depth. Also, the reel of your downrigger will provide the measurement based on # of turns, and as braid is thinner, the reading should be more accurate than it would be were you using SS.

Look...all I'm saying is that the relationship between the amount of braided line for every revolution is now different on MY downrigger since I changed from SS...that's all. The braid is thinner, therefore more of it comes off the downrigger reel per turn...that's all. And I have even less blowback then with SS, which equates to a deeper presentation as well...again, just my experience.

Wow thanks fo all the advice guys, sorry it took so long to respond. I am just finishing up 13 10s straight at work, now for a 3 day weekend, hopefully even wet a line . My DR are both Scotty, one is a 60" telescoping (sp?) boom and the other is a 30" boom.

Ok so I think I will just go with the mounts I have, does anybody use the locks for the DR that Scotty makes? They seem pretty handy, but once again I have no idea what I am doing.

And what size balls should I use? I have a 10# and a 12#, but would like to pick up some more. I will be mostly salmon fishing. How many spares should I have? Does color matter? Also if I wated to lake fish 15' down could I get by with the DR I have with a 4# ball or are mine too big?

Thanks everyone.

You can use any downrigger ball you want for lakes. I usually use 8 lbers with the mylar on them for some sparkle and the eyes on the back of the ball.

For your other question of what weight. Use heavier balls (like 15 lb pancakes) if you have an electric downrigger. I'd use lighter ones if I used a manual, or get some kid to crank them up. I use the heavy pancakes out in the salt.

Use the lighter release clips in freshwater as the fish are smaller and sometimes (read that mostly) don't pull the line out of the clips. Scotty makes some small clips that work good in freshwater. I use them. It usually takes a trout over 14 inches to release the line.

I've been using SS cable since I moved to Seattle in 1980. I might try braid next time I reload the DRs but that will be awhile since I just bought new Scotty electrics last year. Braid may be neat but I doubt it is worth the $ to toss out perfectly good cable.

Call me a diehard I guess. I kind of like the humm that cable makes.

Ok so I m getting closer to chasing some salmon. Witch means I have another downrigger question. And dont laugh, this is a real stupid question. How do I initially start fishing with a downrigger? Make sense? Just literally the very 1st step one would take to get his line attached to the cable, set the ball at the right depth and start fishing. I know....pretty sad

Thanks

check your lure is working at the speed you are going at. if it is let out 30' of line attach it to the clip and lower your ball down. General rule is shallow in the morning and deeper as the sun comes up. depending on the fish....hope that helps.

gpc wrote:Ok so I m getting closer to chasing some salmon. Witch means I have another downrigger question. And dont laugh, this is a real stupid question. How do I initially start fishing with a downrigger? Make sense? Just literally the very 1st step one would take to get his line attached to the cable, set the ball at the right depth and start fishing. I know....pretty sadThanks

Take a look at the Scotty web site: http://www.scotty.com/fishing-tips-techniques/index.htm
Lots of great information there.

Here's a couple of youtube video's:
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Hey thanks for taking the time to help a newb guys. With all the chaos of busting out all the gear and getting the boat ready after 2 years of sitting I almost forgot that I dont know how to use these things still. Thanks again

All right 1 more (for now). I have been hearing a lot about how important a ball chain swivel is, where does it go? Before it was always attached to the banana and I never had to worry about it. I know for a cut plug it is CRUCIAL, but how necessary is it for a hoochie? Spoon?

Thanks again guys

gpc wrote:All right 1 more (for now). I have been hearing a lot about how important a ball chain swivel is, where does it go? Before it was always attached to the banana and I never had to worry about it. I know for a cut plug it is CRUCIAL, but how necessary is it for a hoochie? Spoon?

Thanks again guys

No not for hoochie or spoons. But bannana weight with cut plug it is a must.

Maybe I can get some thoughts from the gang on the stainless versus braided question...

I have a Scotty Black Box on my boat which controls the voltage produced by the chemical reaction between the metals (stanless cable and zincs on the boat). I believe that it makes a positive difference in my results...

It won't work with the braided line, right???

And do the braided line proponents not worry about that??? Or get it from lures with e-chips??? etc...

Thanks!