steering

[sickbayer]

My TJ has rack and pinion steering it is a 03 model. when i got it two years ago the steering was stiff, lately it has been really stiff. Any of you guys had this problem and fixed it...

[swedefish4life1]

TJ go figure#-o cables are dry and you never heard or saw this from me









:colors: Thunderjunk:-$ :colors: lol

[Gisteppo]

Lubricant is a good place to start. From the motor to the pinion, lube it all.

Me personally, id switch to a NFB system, but thats personal preference.

E

[Anonymous]

The steering cable has rusted. Don't try to lube it, it won't work, it's suposed to be dry. New cable is about $200 and they need to be replaced every few years. I've been looking for a boot to cover the wet end of the cable, found a mfg and just need to decide on the boot. Water gets into the cable over time and even though they're teflon coated cable, they eventually rust. No lube with a coated cable. In addition if the cable casing has been broached you'll be dumping lube into your bilge if you try and lube. You'll be pulling the floor to replace the cable. Sorry bro.

[Gisteppo]

Hmm, used graphite on my cable, made it very happy.....

E

[Bodofish]

Jetboat with rusty cable?

[Gisteppo]

Ironically, yes.

E

[Bodofish]

It's not an outboard jet. The end of the stearing cable is attached to the pump nozzle. It's right at the water line so when there is any weight at the rear of the boat, it goes under water. It doesn't matter how much you grease the end, water is going to get in. The cables rust, you throw them away and put a new one in. It's a fact of life with an inboard jet.
River sled at about 3500# and 200+ HP, I don't take chances with the stearing. Not worth the risk.

[Gisteppo]

Well, the one Im thinking of was a glass boat, and had a nice wiper seal on the cable. Berkeley pump, old beater boat.

E

[Bodofish]

It must have the $500 cable. =)

[sickbayer]

Well i unhinged the rear pinion at the bucket/pump nozzle and unscrewed at the inside at the hull, some water came out but not enough to fill a teaspoon. there is no rust as far as i can see. with the cable disconnected it was still stiff. bearing in mind there is less than 60hours on this boat. It had 20 hours on her when i bought it.

So if i was to lube this thing up why would it break bodo? As for taking chances not my cuppa tea too mate. So i guess ill be calling 3rivers tomorrow...

Sweede i happen to like my THUNDERJUNK so excuse me for sticking two fingers up to you mate!! LOL

[Bodofish]

Where the cable rusts is going to be deep inside the cable about half way from the wheel to the nozzle. Hours on the engine don't really mean anything. It's had five years for it to rust, who knows what happened before you got it. If the cable got wet, it will rust. Sometimes they get water in them by rubbing the casing in something sharp in the bilge, you'll only see that when the floor has been pulled and the cable inspected. If the cable is disconnected you should be able to spin the wheel by pushing the cable in and out with just a couple fingers. When I park mine now I make sure the bow is high, the water is all dried out of the bilge and I run a heater in the winter when I put her away for a day then once a week for an hour or two. I guess the question that should hve been asked is has the steering always been stiff. With the rack and pinion you should be able to steer the boat with one finger.

[Gisteppo]

60 hrs?

I don't think its a corrosion issue. If its still under warranty, have 3 rivers take a look.

E

[Bodofish]

3-Rivers = No touch my boat!!!!! WARNING!!!!!!!!!

[Bodofish]

60 hrs?

I don't think its a corrosion issue. If its still under warranty, have 3 rivers take a look.

E

So are you saying a boat can't rust when it's just sitting there? I know it's a bit dryier in Spokane than around here but come on. Oxidation doesn't follow the engine hour meter. '03, that's five years to rust.

[sickbayer]

it has been stiff since i got it...it is parked on a grade with the bow facing down. My drive way sucks. When i disconnected it is was a little easier, still two hands but Bodo ive never been able to turn the wheel one handed although one finger. My thought is i maybe i should diss-aemble (SP?) at the hull it (is that possible at the nozzle end) raise it and oil and lube the crap out of it. I dont think it runs under my floor. but along the side.

[Bodofish]

In most cases the entire cable, casing and all has to be removed in order to get the cable out of the housing, it comes out from the steering wheel end. If you've been sitting bow down the water won't drain. The cable was probably starting to get tight before you bought it. give a shout.

[Gisteppo]

Hmm, Sick, is there a warranty associated with the boat?

Im still not committed to the corrosion thing personally (yes, its wetter where you live, but keep in mind I run one of my boats in the ocean with some regularity), I think there is a more insidious issue.

Are you willing to get your hands dirty and take your boat apart? Do you know anyone that can do it with you? If you lived over here I'd have you bring it over and have a look at it. I would take whatever parts of the boat are in the way out, check that the cable run is completely clear of kinks/twists/tight turns, and have a look at the rack & pinion system. Cables don't like a radius of less than 2 feet, some slightly less. Its possible that the cable routing causes a tight spot. Its possible that the nozzle isn't turning as easily as it could. The potential is there that the R&P setup is crap from the factory and should be replaced with a rotary or NFB system.

Id say it needs to be diagnosed further than I can do by web chat. I don't know that a shop is necessary, although I think Id call and ***** to the 3 rivers guys and say its never been right and you are pretty pissed about it. See if they will fit you in at a cheap shop rate or free plus parts. Its always worth a shot.

E

[Bodofish]

Sorry Gisteppo,
I know you're very knowledgeable about boats and fixing stuff. In this case you could diagnose and lube it to death and the outcome is going to be the same. To make it right the cable needs to be removed from the boat, casing and all and tossed in the garbage. We have the same steering on both our boats. I've been down this road before and believe me I tried everything short of a Vodoo Ritual. Then I took the advice that was give to me and now my boat steers with one finger. The cables are suposed to be dry, they have plastic sleeves inside the casing for lube. This is by design so the cable won't freeze up when you're below 32 degrees. If they have water in them and they freeze, it distorts the plastic sleeves and no amout of lube will fix it. Very annoying when this happens, believe me I know from first hand experience. Per the Mfg., No liquid lube is to be used on the cable and no petroleum based lubes are to be used because they will damage the plastic sleeves, basically no lube period, that's what the plastic sleeves are for. When the steel cable rusts, it expands and the flakes of rust fill the cable and housing making the tolerance between the cable and housing to small to move smoothly. When the cable rusts it ruins the integrity and strength of the cable. It's a known cost of doing business, one the boat mfgs don't tell you about till it's time to replace the first one. It's not a part covered under any warranty. I'm trying cheat the process by finding a boot that will fit over the wet end of the cable so no water can get in period. There's a zirk thats for greasing the end of the cable, that little bit of grease is supposed to keep the water out. Hahahahaha. This happens to most inboard ski/wakeboard boats too, they have the same type of steering. So as one that's been down the road I know exactly what the problem is. Most of the interior of the boat has to be removed to get the cable out where it can be worked on. If you have a repair shop do it, most of the cost is labor, tearing the boat apart and putting it back together. It's not hard, just a pain and it's time consuming. So I've learned, once the interior is out, toss the cable so it stops giving one the biz. You can lube it and put it back in but I'll guaranty the floor will be comming out in short order to do it again. On my next change there will be a nice rubber boot installed to keep it nice and dry. Till then I keep the bow high and the heater on to keep it warm and dry. It's just the way it is. :bounce:

[sickbayer]

Gisteppo I really appreciate your effort and thoughtfulness in offering to help. But after calling 3 local shops for price quotes bodo is right on here. The cost is in the labour so im gonna take it apart and find out where the cable is. Ive no idea how to install one or the correct method in taking one out so that part will be going into the shop.